The Switch Manifest
The engine of the board. Ignore the marketing colors. Focus on materials, stem length, and spring weight.
Linear vs Tactile
We do not advocate for clicky switches; the mechanism relies on flimsy jackets or bars that introduce acoustic rattle. The debate is strictly linear versus tactile.
Linear
A smooth plunge from top to bottom. No bump, no interruption. The preferred choice for consistent acoustic signatures and heavy typists.
- Gateron Ink Black (Heavy, deep sound)
- Alpaca V2 (Smooth, higher pitched)
- NovelKeys Cream (Self-lubricating POM)
Tactile
A physical bump indicating actuation. We prefer 'D-shaped' highly tactile switches where the bump starts at the very top of the keypress.
- Boba U4T (Sharp, thocky)
- Holy Panda (Rounder bump)
- Zealio V2 (Extremely sharp)
Tool: Switch Weight Calculator
Calculate estimated actuation force based on bottom-out weight.
35g
100g
Est. Actuation Force:
Typing Feel:
Common Mistakes
- Buying switches based on color rather than material composition (PC, Nylon, POM).
- Assuming heavier springs are "better". Hand fatigue is real. Start at 62g.
- Ignoring stem length. Long-pole stems bottom out earlier, creating a louder, sharper sound profile, but reducing total travel distance.
FAQ
- Do I need to film my switches?
- Only if the housing wobbles when closed. PC housings often need films; nylon less so. Modern switches generally have tighter tolerances.
- What is a 'Frankenswitch'?
- Combining parts from different switches (e.g., Holy Pandas were originally Halo stems in Invyr Panda housings). Mostly obsolete given the quality of modern stock switches.